Kolhapur, a Maratha community bastion turned into a temple town also known for its Mutton dishes and the Rankala lake which is within the city, seems to have forgotten to move ahead. The old city has thousands of two wheelers causing citizens to choke on pollution. To celebrate the end of the year i did plan a visit for four days to Kolhapur and the fact that i returned in three days says a lot about the place, trust me i visited all the tourist places which the city has to offer. Be it a hill station Panhala--20 kilometres away from Kolhapur, wrestling talim's (schools), jaggery making cottage industries or the old and new museums.
For a tourist from Mumbai, train takes you there in over 12 hours while by road hours without traffic can take you there. Caution--if taking the train do check with your hotel whether it allows 24-hour check in as you will be in Kolhapur in early hours. As for choice of stay, if your purpose is only to visit the Mahalakshmi temple, stay either close to the Central Bus Stand or near the temple where small lodges offer rooms for nominal rates to allow you get fresh and catch up on a power nap. If you plan to stay overnight, do opt for either Hotel Opal, or any of the Oyo room hotels, as they would keep you comfortable. Lodging/boarding options don't offer 24-hour hot water facilities or quick bites. So this brings us to the main question--what to do when your on holiday in Kolhapur.
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If possible stay at the Valley View hotel in Panhala, a magnificent property which does not offer a bar but a clear valley view from the Panahal fort which was ruled by several regimes including that of a lady warrior 'Tara Rani'. This place is a big mood lifter. As for seeing the Panhala fort or to say the remains of the fort it can be done walking or on a two wheeler--there is hardly much to see. The teen darwaza which was one of the entry points to the fort is now used by villagers and those who intent to visit an educational institution below.
The great warrior Baji Prabhu Deshpanade's magnificent statute at the start of the hill station is a must watch. History says that the great warrior fought the Moguls giving a safe passage to Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj to Vishalghad. Please people don't stand below his statue and take selfies, but remember the bravery of the warrior and the famous war of Pavankhind, which has now become a major trek spot during the monsoon season.
In the city do visit Rankala, it has a lovely promenade and walking is a pleasure. Comparing it to Carter road/bandstand in Bandra or Marine Drive in Mumbai--strictly not allowed. However, for Kolhapur standards, this is lovely.
Then do make it a point to visit one of the kushti talim's (wrestling schools) inside the city. Over the years four major ones remain--Gangavesh, Moti Baugh are prominent ones. The motibaugh talim also has women wrestlers. The wrestlers are mostly students who stay and practise at the talim's and are mostly from places around Kolhapur. The sport which is now popular on telivision is on display for foreign tourist who reach kolhapur in the Deccan Odyssey train.
As for eating places, a must visit is Hotel Opal for its Mutton dishes and the Kolhapur special Pandhra and Tamra rasa. Eat using hands and the taste buds thank you for giving them such a lovely treat. I am told the mutton chops are also a must have. Another kolhapur speciality is the Misal pav of ''Padhtare'' which is in the city. The misal comes with slice bread and Kat (fiery red curry) served separately. This dish is pura paisa vasool. Do visit the Kolhapuri chappal market near the temple for shopping and also do try the masala's (spices) to take back home for non-veg preparations.
PS: Stay only for two nights in Kolhapur, at a hours journey by road is Panchgani/Mahableshwar in Satara district, do add them on you long weekend holiday do keep the holiday spirit high.
