12-handi ka payaa

IN the bylanes of Null bazaar off mohamedali road is a place famous for paya, the busy market is chirpping with handcarts and people in the day but after sunset and evening prayers the shop puts up its chairs and tables on the road. It is then the tasters hit out on the road to rejoice in the cusine of the brave (i say that because it heavy on the tummy).

Bara handi ka paya...or its called bhel in the local lingo...comprises of paya (bones), gravy and charbi (fat) put in seperately. The name 12-handi ka paya comes because the food is keept in handi big vessels over a tandoor. The man on the counter sits on a higher place and pours the servings by sliding the plates on the handi's.

I was introduced to this cusine by my grandfather who used to bring the bhel at home along with lamba pav and we used to have it for dinner and breakfast the next day. Now also the routine has not broken. In fact today only i was telling my mom will get it the coming friday evening.

Eating the payaa sitting there you will not get paav but will have to eat it with tandoori roti. One plate of paya and it feels like someone should not push you or else it would all come out...It so heavy food and the spices used ensure that you finish the plate and only then realise that you have eaten too much. Bohris call the bara handi ka paya as ''saath angli'' the name is because the man who serves the dish actually uses only seven fingers. Five in the right hand to hold the big spatual and two fingers to lift the plates on the handi's to draw the food.

for me saath angli is special in the sense that it brings the family together as whoever plans to get it announces well in advance and then the family eating together in one plate (thaal) happens...Then it feels like log khaana khaaten hai pyaar badane ke liyen, pet bharne ke liyen toh kutten khaten hai...

ramzaan mubarak